What to Watch Food:
Two or three days before delivery, your dog may lose her appetite and have a slight discharge of thick, clear mucus from her vagina. During the last week of pregnancy, you may want to take her temperature twice a day. You’ll know that the birth is imminent when her temperature drops below 99 degree F – the pups will probably start putting in an appearance within in 24 hours or so.
Make sure you have arranged for someone to be with you having arranged for someone to be with you for the delivery, just in case there is a problem and you need to play midwife. No matter how much your dog loves you, if she’s in pain she may bite, so another pair of caring hands can help to hold her. “Whelping should never be done alone,” says Dr. Wilcox.
Stage One:
Signs that the mother-to-be has entered the first stage of labor are panting, shivering and restlessness. She may also vomit. As the pups move into position for delivery, her belly will begin to sag, explains Dr. Wilcox. She may walk around, unable to get comfortable, and she may come to you often, so give her lots of reassurance. This stage can last from 6 to 24 hours – it’s different for each dog.
Stage Two:
As labor continues, she’ll finally settle down to the serious business of pushing. She may lie on her side as the contractions increase, sometimes panting, whining and groaning. Stay calm, speak softly and lovingly, and stoke her slowly to help her feel better.
“It’s best not to heave the whole family watching,” says Dr. Mcardle. She doesn’t want to be distracted or disturbed. You’ll know she’s about to give birth when you see a sac emerging.
Hello Puppies!
Your dog may give birth lying down or standing up. If she prefers to stand, you’ll need to be there to catch the pups. As a pup is delivered, the mother tears the placental membranes in which the puppy in wrapped and eats them. The puppy then takes his first breath. Mom bites off the umbilical cord and may eat the afterbirth, which usually appears a few minutes after the pup. She’ll then lick the puppy, it means that a placenta has remained in the uterus, and your veterinarian will need to remove it to make sure that your dog doesn’t develop an infection.
If your dog doesn’t remove the placental membranes from a pup within five minutes of birth, or doesn’t bite through the pup’s umbilical cord, you’ll need to get into the act. “Keep his head down and use a little bulb syringe to suction out and mucus in the mouth,” Dr. Craft says. “Clamp off the umbilical cord with your fingers, then cut it with blunt – nosed scissors. Tie the cord off with unwaxed dental floss or thread, and dab the area with iodine to disinfect it. Rub the puppy vigorously with a clean hand towel. You want to hear him cry.”
The pups may appear every few minutes, or your dog may rest for an hour or two between each delivery. After all the pups are born, you will probably see a green, dark red or brown discharge. This odorless fluid is a natural part of her body’s cleansing process and may last several weeks. There’s no need to worry about this unless an odor develops, which could mean there’s an infection and you should see the vet.
When to Help:
As the birth proceeds, keep your eye on the clock and jot down when things start and stop. If your dog seems to be having hard contractions, is panting and pushing, and seems stressed, one of the puppies may have become lodged across the birth canal instead of heading downward. If a puppy doesn’t appear within 20 minutes of continual strong contractions, call your vet for advice. He may talk you through turning the pup or recommend that you bring your dog in. this is probably the most common problem during delivery, says Dr. Wilcox. “The first puppy dilates the cervix, but not enough. As there may not be time to get to a vet, you will have to help with the delivery.”
To be the midwife, reach up to the cervix with your fingers (make sure your hands are clean and your nails trimmed) to see how the puppy is positioned. Most pups come out nose first, stomach down, but it’s also fine if they’re born rear-first. Hold the pup’s body – not his legs or head – firmly but gently, and let the contractions push the pup out. Remember that your dog is probably frightened and in pain, so have somebody hold her head to prevent her biting you.
After – Birth Care:
Check that the puppies are all nursing strongly and that everyone has found a nipple. It’s vital for them to get milk from their mother during the first three days of life. That first milk has a substance called colostrums, which provides antibodies that protect the puppies from disease until they can be vaccinated.
Weight each puppy and jot down the weight in a notebook. You’ll need to weigh them on a gram or ounce scale every 12 hours for at least the first week, to make sure they are gaining weight. It’s the easiest way to make sure they’re thriving. And if they’re not, you may need to supplement their feeding with formula. “The puppies should remain vigorous,” says Dr. Craft.
It’s also a good idea to have mother and pups checked by your vet in the first 24 hours. He can make sure there aren’t any other puppies still inside the uterus, or any retained placentas, and cleft palates or any other problems.
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